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-Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the best of Europe.
This time, we're packin' light,
but there's always room for puppies, sheepdog puppies.
We're in the Highlands of Scotland.
[ Wind whistling ] Thanks for joining us.
♪♪
♪♪
♪♪
♪♪
The Highlands are where dreams of Scotland are set.
The land of kilts, clans, and lonely castles,
the Highlands offer the quintessence of Scottish charms.
In this episode, we'll connect with clan heritage,
be awestruck by Highland beauty,
marvel at early British engineering,
join in the search for a monster,
time-travel back to the Iron Age,
watch sheepdogs do their thing --
-[ Whistles ] Hold 'em back! Hold 'em back!
-...and check out some traditional folk music.
♪♪
The United Kingdom includes England, Wales,
North Ireland, and Scotland.
Scotland includes a third of Britain's land.
Its main cities are Glasgow and Edinburgh.
To the south is the Lowlands and to the north, the Highlands.
Focusing on the Highlands, we'll visit Inveraray, Oban,
follow the Caledonian Canal to Loch Ness, Inverness,
and the battlefield at Culloden.
Here in Scotland, the Highlands have more than half the land,
and only 5% of the people.
Still, it's these Highlands, so vast, yet so sparsely populated,
that give us the classic image of Scotland.
The highest mountains in Britain are here in Scotland,
in the Highlands.
While only around 3,000 feet in altitude,
they offer a dramatic welcome and a backdrop
of constantly changing views for road trippers.
Long lakes, called "lochs" here, cut like fjords into a land
where the heritage remains strong.
-In this region, so much seems proudly Scottish.
Clans gather to celebrate traditional sports,
girls grow up dreaming to dance like their mothers did,
whisky is savored with reverence for the culture --
♪♪
...and pipers still stir the Scottish soul.
And, in this land so steeped in culture,
Scotland's beloved hairy coo feels perfectly at home.
These shaggy Highland cattle
have evolved to fit the environment.
Their adorable bangs protect their eyes
from both insects and the persistent wind.
Historically, Highland society was centered
around the clan system.
In medieval times, long before being tamed
by any central government,
the Highlands were inhabited by a collection of proud,
and often bickering, tribes, or clans,
each with its own chief and deep-seated traditions.
♪♪
Castles dotting the landscape evoke this strong clan heritage.
Scottish people, whether in Scotland;
or abroad, as part of the Scottish diaspora;
still relate to their historic clan
and many venerate a particular castle
as their historic capital and almost spiritual center.
Inveraray Castle, the residence of the 13th Duke of Argyle,
has a stately turreted exterior set in a delightful garden.
♪♪
Historically, a stronghold of the Campbell clan,
its walls are well-hung with portraits
of the many dukes who've called this palace home.
Here's the first duke,
with dukes number two and three on deck.
As with many such castles, the aristocratic family
still lives here, like clan royals.
Displays are like a family scrapbook,
showing the current duke and his family,
who still occupy the private half of this palace.
♪♪
The public half is a museum,
filled with precious, if you're a Campbell, artifacts.
♪♪
This case features pendants
of esteemed family members through the ages.
This one's filled with dirks and daggers,
set against a nice Campbell tartan.
A highlight is the Armory Hall, which fills the main atrium.
Here, swords and rifles
are artistically arrayed in starburst patterns.
Docents are standing by and happy to answer questions.
-So, our halberds here date from the 1600s.
They come from the earlier castle, before this one.
-Now, what is a halberd?
-So, a halberd could be used against charging cavalry
and you'll notice they've got tassels on them.
It's not just for decoration.
Don't know about you. If I'm killing someone,
you don't want their blood dripping down your weapon,
making it all slippy.
-So, the tassels actually had a function.
-That's right. So, the tassels would soak up the blood.
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